McLeodganj

McLeod Ganj is a puff‑filled enclave perched above Dharamshala, where the Tibetan government‑in‑exile trades tea‑stained prayer wheels for budget hostels and yak‑hair scarves. Two days is honest: a sunrise trek to the Dalai Lama’s Temple Complex at 7 am (the chanting is louder than the traffic on Subhash Road) followed by a lazy brunch of thukpa at the Greenhouse Café. Spend the afternoon wandering the winding lanes of the Tibetan market – don’t be fooled by the glossy souvenir stalls; the real finds are hand‑woven carpets in the basement of the Tibet Museum, open only Tue–Sat. On day two, catch the 9:30 am bus to the Bhagsu waterfalls, dip in the cold plunge, then return for an evening at the Namgyal Institute of Tibetan Culture for a short, un‑glorified talk on the Dalai Lama’s philosophy (timed to finish before the night market opens). Stay in a modest guesthouse on McLeod Road; the luxury chains near the main bus stand are overpriced and noisy. Avoid July‑August – monsoon turns the stone steps into slick traps – and aim for late September to early November when the pine‑scented air is crisp and the crowds thin.

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