McLeodganj Temple 3

The third temple on the winding Naggar Road, known locally as Temple 3, is the most unassuming of McLeodganj’s holy spots: a squat granite gopuram smudged with soot, an oil‑lamp perpetually alight behind a cracked brass door, and a strict no‑photography rule that feels more like a warning than a suggestion. Arrive at dusk, when the lamps flicker against the evening chill and the chanting of monks drifts down the valley; the soft orange light is far more rewarding than any flash could capture. Skip the daytime crowds that cram the lower precincts – the narrow veranda is a hotspot for selfie‑hungry tourists who will block the view of the ancient stone carvings. Instead, purchase a modest donation at the brass box on the left, then sit on the cracked marble bench beside the central shrine; the bench is uncomfortable but the view of the Himalaya silhouette through the shikhara is worth the sore backside. Dress modestly – no shorts, no open shoes – and remember the air is thin; a warm tea from the tea‑stall on the opposite side of the path will keep you from shivering in the early winter months. November through February is ideal; the monsoon turns the stone slippery and the summer heat makes the oil‑lamp smoke unbearably thick.

• Go early; crowds peak by 11am
• Local guides charge ₹500 — worth it for the stories