McLeodganj Ghats

McLeodganj’s ghats are a mis‑nomer more than a marvel – a narrow flight of stone steps down to the River Beas that suddenly becomes a makeshift promenade at dusk when locals light rusty oil lamps. Arrive just before sunset; the early crowds linger for a quick chai at Chamba House, but the real reward is to wedge yourself on the lowest step, away from the teenage trekkers, and watch the river turn amber under the flicker of a hundred uneven flames. The ritual feels genuine only if you stay until the lamps die, but the view is easily outshone by the view from the ridge above – the Dalai Lama’s Temple complex offers a far cleaner perspective of the valley and the same sunset without the mosquito‑laden humidity. Skip the souvenir stalls that pop up at the top of the steps after 6 pm; they are overpriced and add little to the experience. A night in a budget guesthouse on Joginder Nagar Road keeps you within a ten‑minute walk, and a rain‑showered monsoon from July to September makes the ghats slippery and the lamps smudged – aim for late September to October when the air is crisp and the lamps burn cleanly.

• Go early; crowds peak by 11am
• Local guides charge ₹500 — worth it for the stories