Kolkata

Kolkata is the most literary, most political, and most architecturally decaying of India's metros — a Bengali renaissance city stuck in a slow gentle fade. The Victoria Memorial is the headline; the Marble Palace, Park Street cafés (Flurys, Tribuca), and the College Street book bazaar are the substance. Cross the Hooghly to see the Howrah Bridge from Howrah; ride the world's last hand-pulled rickshaws around Sudder Street if you can stomach the ethics; eat fish-head curry, mishti doi, and roshogolla until you can't see straight. Durga Puja (Sep/Oct) is the city at its loudest and most beautiful. Three nights minimum.

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