Spiti Palace 2

Spiti Palace 2 looms over Kaza like a misplaced marble trophy, a 1700s ambition that turned a working‑class hamlet into a glossy façade, and the result is as polarising as the high‑altitude wind. Arrive in early October when the monsoon has finally fled and the snow‑capped peaks are still clean enough to reflect off the palace’s polished façade; anything later risks blizzards that turn the stone into a slippery nightmare and anything in July‑August is a mosquito‑laden slog. The only sensible way to see it is at sunrise from the narrow lane of Lhalung Road, when the light catches the marble’s pinkish hue and you can hear the distant prayer bells before the tourist crowd swells. Skip the interior – the cramped royal chambers are a poorly lit, musty museum of faded carpets and broken chandeliers that will make you wish you were still on the road to Tabo. Instead, linger on the terrace, sip a steaming cup of butter tea from the modest tea‑stall opposite the monastery, and watch the valley wake. Stay in a family‑run guesthouse in Kaza’s bazaar rather than the overpriced heritage hotel opposite the palace; you’ll get a roof, a hot shower and a chance to hear locals complain about the marble’s upkeep. Two hours is honest, three if you plan to photograph the sunset behind the Kinnaur range – but don’t be fooled, the view is better from the nearby herb garden than from the palace’s own balcony.

• Go early; crowds peak by 11am
• Local guides charge ₹500 — worth it for the stories