Shikari Devi Temple

Shikari Devi Temple, perched 1,800 metres above the Karsog valley, is the sort of pilgrimage that rewards only the patient and the credulous. The road from Sanarli (or the equally remote Janjheli) is a 18‑kilometre ascent of hairpin bends, potholes and occasional landslip, so a sturdy SUV and a full tank are non‑negotiable; public buses quit at the valley floor and the nearest guesthouse is a modest dhaba‑run inn at Ghatte, where rooms are basic but the homemade dal‑chana and chai are decent after a climb. The shrine itself—a squat, white‑washed mandir crowned with a brass Durga idol—was supposedly founded by the Pandavas, a claim that adds mythic flavour but no extra amenities. Arrive at sunrise for a quieter ambience; the later crowd of weekend trekkers from Shimla swells the courtyard with chanting and garlands, and the smell of incense becomes oppressive. Skip the overpriced souvenir stalls near the parking lot and instead sample the local butter tea from a roadside stall that’s been there since the 1990s. The view from the temple’s back steps, overlooking the pine‑clad ridge toward the Jhelum, is worth the effort, but remember that the monsoon (July‑August) turns the road into a mudslide, and winter snow can close the pass altogether. Mid‑October to early December offers clear skies, manageable traffic and the genuine sense of being in a remote Himachali sanctuary, which is the only reason to endure the drive.

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