Rishikesh Ghats

Rishikesh’s ghats are less a tourist‑drawn showcase than a haphazard ladder of stone steps spilling into the Ganga, each one a reluctant witness to yoga retreats, street vendors and the occasional pilgrim seeking a dip before sunset. The non‑negotiables are Triveni Ghat at the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati for the evening aarti at 19:15 – the bronze bells, the flood of diyas and the collective hum are worth the inevitable crowd – and Laxman Jhula’s lower landing where the water’s current is tolerable and you can watch the neon‑lit ashrams compete for attention. For a quieter bite, glide early‑morning (5 am‑6 am) along the path from Parmarth Niketan to Swarg Ashram; a cup of chai from the tea‑stall run by the same family since the 1990s feels more authentic than the yoga‑studio smoothies. Skip the heavily‑photographed Ganga Aarti at Shivpur; the sound system is louder, the view obstructed by a permanent vendor maze, and the experience feels staged. Stay in a modest guesthouse on the Rajaji Road side of the river – the rooms are basic but the balcony overlooks the steps, letting you watch the lamps flicker without having to shuffle through throngs of bikers. Late October to early March is the only window when the heat is tolerable and the mist that rolls off the river adds a cinematic veil; avoid the monsoon, when the steps turn to slip‑n‑slide and the aarti is lost in the roar of swollen water.

• Go early; crowds peak by 11am
• Local guides charge ₹500 — worth it for the stories