Lalbagh Palace

Lalbagh Palace, the neglected jewel of Indore’s Holkar legacy, is best tackled with a half‑day slot and a sensible pair of shoes – the marble steps are slick after monsoon spray and the surrounding gardens can feel like a hedge maze if you wander without a map. Arrive early on a weekday, preferably in November or February when the oppressive heat eases and the rose‑laden lawns are actually in bloom; the palace’s turquoise dome and the Victorian‑Eclectic façade look almost respectable from the road, but the interior is a cramped, under‑lit jumble of colonial parlours, an empty ballroom and a cryptic family museum that most guides skim over. Skip the guided tour – the audio guide is half‑broken and the staff are eager to push the souvenir shop – and instead focus on the lower courtyard where the Holkar armory is displayed; it’s the only place you’ll see the genuine 19th‑century swords that survived the 1950s fire. For a coffee break, slip into the adjacent Sheraton’s lobby tea room – the chai there is considerably better than the street stalls outside the main gate. If you have more time, combine the visit with a stroll down Rajwada to the bustling Sarafa Bazaar for a plate of poha and jalebi; the palace alone feels like a half‑finished set piece, but in context it reminds you why Indore earned its “cleanest city” badge while still housing a half‑forgotten Maratha masterpiece.

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