Sterling Khajuraho Palace

Sterling Khajuraho Palace is the kind of heritage hotel that pretends to be a relic and mostly succeeds, though the dust‑laden corridors and peeling frescoes remind you that the building has been more museum than boutique for the last decade. Arrive in October or early November when the monsoon has withdrawn and the temperature hovers around a tolerable 24 °C; the garden, planted with bougainvillea and a lone neem, is finally in bloom and the nearby Western Group of temples can be explored without the oppressive heat of summer. Check in at the colonial‑styled front desk on Main Road, then make a point of booking the rooftop tea at 5.30 p.m., when the setting sun paints the sandstone temples in amber and the scanty crowd lets you sip Darjeeling in relative peace. The in‑house restaurant, The Palatial, is worth a visit for its thali – a modest plate of dal‑bukhara, bhindi masala and fried paneer that eclipses the over‑priced buffet. Skip the afternoon spa; the massages feel rushed and the aromatics are more incense than therapeutic oil. Stay the night in the heritage suite on the second floor – its high ceilings and original teak doors are charming, but be prepared for a creak or two and a lack of modern climate control, which makes a portable fan a sensible add‑on. Two nights is honest if you want to combine temple‑hopping with a taste of faded opulence; a third night only stretches the novelty.