Park Hyatt Amritsar Residency

The Park Hyatt Amritsar Residency sits on the cracked, colonial‑era façade of the old Residency, a reminder that the city once hosted a British siege that still haunts its skyline; the lobby still smells of polished teak and a faint whiff of incense, a curious clash that works only if you can tolerate the occasional stray pigeon droppings on the marble. Rooms are spacious, with high ceilings that let the heat of a June afternoon drift lazily, so book a room with the east‑facing balcony for sunrise over the Harmandir Sahib dome – the view is worth the extra rupee. The bar, tucked behind the old guardhouse, serves a surprisingly decent Amritsari kulcha‑crusted gin cocktail at 5 pm; otherwise the all‑day dining spread is a façade of Punjabi fare that leans heavily on tinned paneer tikka, so skip lunch and return for dinner when the kitchen finally fires up the butter chicken. The spa is a ghost of the original British infirmary: marble floors, muted lighting and a therapist who insists on a 90‑minute oil massage that feels more like a polite Victorian restraint than indulgence. Stay for a minimum of two nights to experience the quiet midnight walk along the riverfront, but avoid the monsoon months of July–September when the garden’s pond overflows and the heritage walk becomes a muddy slog. For the truly sniff‑savvy, request the ‘heritage suite’ – you’ll get an extra century of peeling wallpaper and a story, not just a bigger bed.